Well, quite frankly, it's time I got up off my butt and started painting some armies. With 5th around the corner and the CSM codex recently out, it's almost like starting from scratch. So first principles: a HQ and 2 Troops.

So, just finished prepping the first Troops choice:

Thousand Sons & Rhino


Rhino


Thousand Sons


Action Shot!


And for the Forum Challenge I will be painting this dude:

It's like starting from scratch, but with the help of Forgeworld. I'd like to do that sometime.

On the note of the Forgeworld stuff, I hope you paint that Rhino well

you are me want to start a painting blog now.... how I hate thy

I need to get off my lazy ass and get working on my rhino. I know what to do just don't feel like it. Anyway, those are going to look great, nice forgeworld stuff there, I like seeing chapter/legion specific icons.

Yay! Thousand sons! Great army, that looks fantastic (most of the time) if painte right.
Good luck!

So do I!! I paint to a decent gaming standard, but I am a bit rusty. Have been reading up on techniques to improve, so we'll see how it works out.

HQ, the Daemon Prince Skr'aaa'chund'sneef:


@DF/scythes: creating a blog is also a psychological weapon to make me paint more. I really enjoy it, my problem is picking up the brush. Once I pick it up I tend to get things done though.

Your Demon prince is awesome looking!

Thats why I wanted to start a blog to so I would actually just paint for a change.

Progress Report:
Used Mordian Blue from the Foundation Paints. I have one beef with the FPs, whoever designed the lids clearly hadn't painted a tank during testing, cos the damn lid doesn't stay up enough to get into without putting the tank down.
Next I will pick out all the metal areas with tin bitz, then use a watered down blue wash on the blue.



Also, undercoatage:

More progress. Not much as I was working on painting challenge dude (here and here), and there was the small matter of the Turkey game

Orkhide Shade foundation:



Half the Tin Bitz:



Half assembled 2nd Troops:

I admit that foundation lids are pretty terrible at giving a tank brush paint, but a way to keep it up is to open it so that the two little clip things click. That'll hold the lid open.

Keep up the good work, although your pictures seem pretty dark. I don't remember mordian blue being THAT dark...

Didn't notice those...will look tonight, thanks.



Problem is that I usually take the shots after the daylight has faded. If I use the flash then it comes out worse, so it's no flash and use the auto-colour adjust on photoshop 3, relying on the 100w room light. (Also, that grey desk has a glass top, which really doesn't get on with the flash).

I have a 60w "daylight" bulb that I'm going to try and use as a second light source.

Other randoms:

Holy feth, I can't remember the last time I picked up a paintbrush two days in a row!

This is the first time I've painted since I had laser eye surgery. It's a little harder because I get a slight glare off the wetness of the paint, plus I had like 20/10 vision with glasses compared to 20/20 in my left eye and not as good as 20/20 in my right eye.

Subscribed, I'm really excited to see how your CSM progress...Thousand Sons are sweet looking models, and Nurgle Marines have so many conversion options. Go for 3 days in a row!

Entry from here added to blog!

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Left:



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Top:

2 interesting asides in this post, so I've split it into sections:

1. More blog

Once I finished the Doom Blaster, I was a bit too tired to paint, so I thought I'd work on the Plague Marines.

The shoulder pads are a bit fiddly (see section 2), so I only finished two:







2. Note for anyone planning on getting FW Plague Marines (or World Eaters)

Because of where the shoulder pads are attached to the sprue, it is very difficult to get them off without damaging them slightly. Or if they come off in transit they will almost certainly end up like this:



This is the worst example, the other ones have a smaller gap. It's caused by the sprue being attached to the thinnest piece of the pad basically. It's not too difficult to correct, you can easily press a thin piece of green stuff into the gap. I haven't got a picture of that at the moment, but I'll add one if I remember.

3. Picture quality

With flash:



With flash & auto-colour:



Auto-colour only:



Which one gives the best picture?

For finished/nearly finished stuff I'll shoot it in good light, I'm just interested for the shots where the lighting is not so important.

I always shoot my models without flash for the same reason.

How much did those plague marines cost altogether? I'm still trying to decide whether to get the GW metal marines or the FW ones.

£38 for 10 CSM and 10 FW torsos/shoulder pads = 10 fantastic looking Plague Marines

£20 for 7 metal GW Plague Marines.

IIRC £20 (EDIT: the FW part only, see Pyro above).

In addition to the shoulder pad issue, the bloated bellies mean they don't really lend themselves to holding bolters (not that I care about that, they come with everything anyway) across the chest, although you could cut the bolt pistols off to go for the (now defunct rules-wise) retro-true-grit look.

So yes, it is expensive (ie twice the price). I will emphasise though, the actual sculpting itself is really nice, and despite the irritation, I am a happy bunny.

I have two squads of the metal ones. I really, really dislike the models. They will be finding their way onto ebay in the near future, probably soon after these ones are assembled.

This lot is going to look dammed fine when its all done! Though I am confused by your DP - I think what you've done is just glue Pox to a base and shove wings on him.

Shhhhh! Don't tell him, maybe he won't notice.

I think you're being harsh on Pox, he's far more putrid than that model